22368: Kathleen: On the road at 4 a.m. (fwd)

[Bob Corbett <corbetre@webster.edu>]

From: kathleen burke <kathleenburke704@hotmail.com>

A lovely young man named Jude from MPP came to my veranda Friday at
twilight, where I was contemplating my cats and the sunset, to tell me that
he would be by to pick me up at 4.a.m. the next morning, to go to
Port-au-Prince.  The road is so bad, says LaFalaise, another sweet guy who
always picks me on his motorcycle up when he sees me standing by the road
between Hinche and Papay (He says it's part of his job description).  And he
is so right -- although we did not encounter any 8 - 12 hour delays, we
could have, if the rain decided to pour down, and even though it didn't, the
ravines and gullies are so deep I would think night time driving would be an
invitaion to disaster.  I have total confidence in these guys: there is no
road they cannot navigate.  I pjrobably wouldn't take this ride from Port to
Papay if an American were driving.

A brief note on cats - it's lucky for Mama cat that Ti Boss still loves her
(raised her since she was little) because I don't.  Wah! Wah!  Wah!!! In
triplicate!!! Et fe caca nan salamange meme!  They will sell the kittens to
support the cat.  I'd sell them all, at this point, (or keep Frankiwhitesox
- my friend Fred is right, male cats are more affectionate.  Infidel used to
jump on my chest, stare into my eyes, and then lick my nose.)  but it's not
up to me.

Starting at 4 a.m. is a Haitian tradition (see Amy Willentz's foreword to
DANCING ON FIRE, Maggie Steber's moving and passionate photographic essay).
(Jude just came into the MPP office where I am writing this.  I am
fascinated by the blend of Taino/Carib Indian, Africa, and possibly Spain in
his features.)  Perhaps I shall show him photos of Navajo friends (I cleaned
out some of my photo albums, pages of when I was young and thin and
beautiful which we all enjoyed Sunday) to explain why I stare at him to an
unbecoming extent.  I probably scare him.

Anyhow, the world is a pretty place at 4 a.m. in Haiti, with the predawn
light silhouetting buildings and trees until true dawn arrives.  I consider
it romantic to be picked up at 4 a.m. - Bazelais did it so frequently that I
had a plaque inscribed _ Ici le roi de 4 a.m._ for him as a gift.

When both I and two friends' daughters were younger, four of them would come
to stay with me , two by two, at my apartment in Cambridge for many years;
we had terrific times together and called it "Glendenning (my last name at
the time) School For Girls."  Now in their 30s and mothers, we still refer
fondly to those days.  It seems I have started - or they have initiated - a
Haitian version in Papay.  Lovely little Haitian girls, 13 and 14, come to
visit me and play games.  Just Friday, Rosie and Katya came, and another
little girl whose name I forget but whose photo I took (naturally).  Anyway,
they like to do my hair, as I mentioned before, and investigate quirks de
Blan.  In this case they found two long hairs descending from my chinny chin
chin.  (This is what happens as one grows older - hair missing in some
places and growing where you never want it to be)  When I went to pull them
out, they enacted a spontaneous drama - NO!  I must not!!! (Hands firmly
waving no)  I will die if I do !([pantomine of crossed arms, closed eyes,
death).  We enact this for awhile to great giggles on my part.  They never
lose their pose of concern in protecting me from serious menace.  I show
them my double-jointed fingers, something I have often done for children (I
can't see any other benefit to it); perhaps they will conclude this is a
blan characteristic?
What a world.  I saw the Finale of DEADWOOD and the first episode of SIX
FEET UNDER's new season HBO Sunday, as well as the news from Guyana, Paris,
Detroit, CNN AND the Jamaica-Haiti game from the Orange Bowl.  My promise to
myself to cut down on TV watching does not include HBO, South Park, or the
Daily Show.  Or some Law and Orders.
Annette wants to know how DesLourdes made email work.  We tried and failed
several times today and yesterday.  I shamefacedly admitted that I was so
glad to find it working that I didn't ask; a la Obelisk: cherche pas a
comprendre!!!!!.
It's been a wonderful 30 days.  Hope to come back in October, see the
harvest of tomatoes and morning glories.
Kathleen

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