28231: Hermantin(News)Lawyers' lunches launched a catering career (fwd)

[Bob Corbett <corbetre@webster.edu>]

From: leonie hermantin <lhermantin@hotmail.com>

Posted on Thu, Apr. 06, 2006


THE CULTURAL KITCHEN
Lawyers' lunches launched a catering career

Nancy Ancrum
nancrum@MiamiHerald.com

Patrick Beaulieu was on course to become an air-traffic controller until his 
culinary career took off.

It was the late 1970s, early '80s. A Port au Prince native who grew up in New 
York, Beaulieu was a student at Miami-Dade Community College, making a little 
money on the side mixing up protein shakes and smoothies at a racquetball club.

'I thought, `This is pretty cool,' '' says Beaulieu, 46. ``Then I got a 
dishwashing job in Coral Gables at the French Connection, the original one. And 
I thought, `Wow, this is pretty cool.''

He moved on to a Kendall restaurant where the chef gave him a chance to work 
prep and make salads. 'I did it fast and I did a good job. The chef said, 
`We'll give you a dollar-an-hour raise if you do this all the time.' ''

This was the coolest of all: ''I went back to school and changed my major'' -- 
to hospitality management. Beaulieu went on to cook at an honor roll of '80s 
Miami restaurants including Secrets, Quintessence and Raffles. He says his most 
formative experience was as assistant banquet chef at the InterContinental 
Hotel in the '80s.

``We're talking volume! We're talking a brand-new hotel! It was a great, great 
opportunity. They just threw me into the lion's den. I remember an in-house 
function -- a party of 500 that wanted breakfast, lunch and dinner for the 
week. By the end of the week, I was fried -- I was very well done.''

But he had impressed Marshall Burke, the executive chef, who offered him a 
tryout for the top job at the hotel's Oak Room. Lawyers from the high-priced 
downtown law firms loved the place -- and Beaulieu's food.

``They came on a regular basis. It got to the point where I would cook and 
spice and season the food based on the expectation of whom I would see.''

Then the office manager at Stearns, Weaver Foster Alhadeff and Sitterson asked 
Beaulieu to cater lunch at the office three times a week. He gave notice at the 
hotel, and soon picked up a Friday-lunch catering gig with the law offices of 
Kenny Nachwalter. Nine years later, both firms remain clients.

On weekends, Beaulieu caters parties and other private functions and gets to 
share his wares with a wider audience at affairs such as this weekend's Deering 
Seafood Festival. He plans to make paella and do a demo: poached Florida 
lobster tail with tropical salsa and salade nicoise.

Like many South Florida chefs, Beaulieu likes to incorporate flavors from 
around the world while keeping the focus local.

``I try to keep it indigenous to Miami -- plantains, mango, peppers, cilantro. 
These are things that the general population is aware of, and they can 
appreciate the newness that I'm using with them.

``Last week, I marinated mahi mahi with some dried chiles, cilantro and white 
wine. It was awesome. I pan-seared it and served it with mango chutney.''

Marinating could be called Beaulieu's secret weapon, something that's rooted in 
his Haitian heritage, he says.

``I marinate overnight. I put vinegars in the marinade, a lot of garlic, onion 
flavors. When it blends and sits overnight it makes a tremendous difference.''

Nancy Ancrum writes biweekly about the culinary legacy of the African diaspora.